I actually did the Lough Derg pilgrimage for the first time in August 2015- and this account dates back to then. I've since been back in 2016 and hope to return in 2017. Three times on the island and you get a ticket to heaven. So I've been told. But there's no harm in having an insurance policy.
Here it is for anyone interested.
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| Erin Hutcheon with Bishop Donal McKeown. |
The priest tells us we’re the luckiest group they’ve had
this season because it’s the first night it hasn’t rained.
But I don’t feel particularly lucky sitting in the chilly
St Patrick’s Basilica, barefoot, waiting to begin my all night vigil.
This is St Patrick’s Purgatory, Lough Derg, an island
thousands have flocked to over the centuries. And now it’s my turn. This is no
weekend spa retreat. At Lough Derg, there’s no priority boarding and no room
upgrades. “Once the shoes come off we’re all equal,” says Bishop of Derry,
Donal McKeown.
Last weekend Bishop McKeown led 43 pilgrims from the
Derry diocese on a pilgrimage to Lough Derg, a place where the human body is
pushed to the limit not only because of a lack of food and sleep, but the huge
physical exertion it takes to conquer the penitential beds by walking around
them barefoot.
I was given plenty of advice before setting foot on Lough
Derg. Midge repellant was top of the list, warm clothes, at least three layers,
and rain proof gear. No one mentioned knee pads which really would have come in
handy given the sorry state of my knees after three days on the island.
As I checked my bag before I left I bemoaned the fact I
was leaving behind my hair straighteners, my make up, and my beloved mobile
phone, how was a girl expected to survive? The island has a strict ban on
mobile phones and all electronic devices.
Pilgrims must remain barefoot and the only meal allowed
is dry toast, wheaten bread, and black tea or coffee, served once a day.
We arrived on Friday afternoon just
after 3 p.m. and were shown to our rooms, a small cubicle with bunk beds.
It’s at this point you say goodbye to your shoes, and you
don’t see them again until the morning you leave, because pilgrims negotiate
the island barefoot. During our three days we have to complete nine stations,
three of which had to be done before 9 p.m. on the first day.
The station begins by the pilgrim reciting seven decades
of the rosary while walking around the basilica barefoot. You then make your
visit to the six penitential beds. In busy times pilgrims have to queue at the
penitential beds.
The beds are rings of boulders and rough stones embedded
up-end in the soil, some on a steep incline, in the centre of each stands a
crucifix.
Four sets of prayers are said at each bed, dedicated to
six different saints, with the pilgrim kneeling and walking around at different
points, finishing with more prayers as you kneel in the centre.
The beds are a little tricky to begin with, and I was
confused about what I was doing. But there’s always a priest around or member
of staff happy to answer your questions.
It was Father Cathal Deery who gently pointed out that I
had started at the wrong end of the penitential beds, so I started again.I
struggled to get my three stations completed before the 9pm. deadline, even
missing out on a promised one hour of rest before the all nighter began.
Seasoned Lough Derg pilgrims told me that to complete the
beds in time, I should have got there earlier.
One man, who had walked all the way from Derry told us he
arrived at lunchtime, completed the three stations, had his Lough Derg meal and
gone for a kip.
While most pilgrims struggle with the lack of sleep on
their three day pilgrimage, it was the penitential beds that gave me the
greatest difficulty.
The beds, particularly the first two were very difficult
to negotiate, while praying. On the beds, I saw immense acts of kindness, one
young man held his hand out to help me while I was negotiating a tricky rock.
Kneeling on the beds is a painful task, but one we all tried to “offer up.”
It takes around an hour to negotiate a full station and
nine must be done in the three days.
But the bulk of the work is undertaken on the first day
when a total of seven stations are completed.
During the pilgrimage we had two Lough Derg meals, which
comprised as much dry toast, wheaten bread, and black tea or coffee as you can
stomach.
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| The beautiful St Patrick's Basilica. |
One of our group
experimented making his own jam from tea leaves and sugar. Only go for one meal
though, one pilgrim tried to sneak back for a second meal only to be recognised
by the kitchen staff who sent him on his way.
The night vigil is a part of the pilgrimage that can
bring the human body to breaking point.
It begins with some quiet reflections and the rosary,
before the group, 241 of us on the night of my vigil, made our fourth, fifth,
sixth and seventh station.
This time instead of outside on the penitential beads,
the stations are done inside the magnificent basilica. Again this takes about
an hour. It’s a little strange at the beginning to see 241 people walking
around the church, kneeling at various intervals, then standing and sitting.
After each station, there’s a short break before the next
one starts.
It’s a long night, made worse by the piercing cold.
Outside, where you find yourself when your eyelids begin to get heavy, the
ground is so cold it feels like tiny knives stabbing you through your heels and
soles.
I thought of my contraband hot water bottle sitting in
the dormitory and wondered if I could sneak up and get it. But no, that would
be breaking the rules.
But you can take refuge in the Flood Room, a special part
of the island where pilgrims can shelter from the elements, and drink hot water
or Lough Derg Soup, hot water with pepper, a delicacy that’s best avoided.
It was during the breaks that I got to meet a few of the
other pilgrims. One woman told me this was her 56th time at Lough Derg. Another
man said this was his sixth visit, his coldest retreat, adding “I’ll never be
back.”
But most of the pilgrims give you that line, and it’s
almost become a standing joke. Lough Derg tends to call people back again and
again. It’s a long six hours until 6 a.m. and the end of the evening part of
the vigil. The fourth station is a bit of a blur and lack of sleep had me
forgetting things, at one point even the words of the Hail Mary. But the more
experienced Lough Dergers explained that disorientation is to be expected under
the circumstances. The morning after, we’re reminded that some difficult hours
still remain ahead as we’re expected to stay awake until 10pm. which will be a
full 24 hours since the vigil began. We’re asked to refrain from lying down on
our bunks when we go for a wash and a change, because of the temptation to
snatch a quick sleep.
The morning of the second day pilgrims have the
opportunity to take part in the Sacrament of Reconciliation - that’s confession
to you and me. It’s a difficult sacrament for some, and the priests encouraged
everyone to come forward and take part, even if many years have passed since
they’ve last been to confession.I don’t do confession, haven’t done so for a
long time, but I decided that the Lough Derg experience wouldn’t be complete
without it.
Father Cathal Deery, is one of the many priests at the
island who put so much time and energy into making the three days an opportunity
to take time out, look at the past, deal with the present and look to the
future.
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| The vigil candle. It feels like this candle will never extinguish. |
He barely flinched when my first ‘confession’ of the
confession was that I hadn’t taken part in the sacrament for 22 years.
He’s a gifted and compassionate priest. My confession was
a very spiritual, maybe a life changing experience and the one part of my
pilgrimage that will stay with me forever. Day two can be a difficult day,
pilgrims only have one station to complete and tiredness is kicking in.
Despite the Lough Derg rule of ‘don’t lie down and don’t
stretch out’ some of the pilgrims did succumb to power naps. The day ends with
evening Mass and night prayer before the vigil candle is finally extinguished
signaling our vigil is over.
The it’s off to the dormitories for the first bit of
sleep in 36 hours.
In the women’s dorm I threw on a pair of woolen socks and
sank into bed. But no sooner were my eyes closed than the bell was ringing us
for 6.30am Mass.
I couldn’t help but feel a little sorry for my fellow
pilgrims who were only coming off the night vigil, while my group had just had
eight hours sleep.
One more station round the basilica and the boats had
arrived to take us off the island.
As I waited to board, the pain in my swollen feet and the
stiffness in my joints reminded me of everything I’d accomplished in three
days. At Lough Derg it’s not about focusing on the things you can’t have while
you are there, it’s about what you can have. Time to switch off, distance
yourself from the stresses and pains that take up so much of your time in real
life. Time for a little solitude, guidance and grace.
That and the 3,745 Hail Marys I recited (yes I counted
them).
The island gave me a truly spiritual experience. I was
especially grateful to be rid of my mobile phone for three days.
When I eventually switched it back on and saw how little
had happened while I was away it made me wonder why I’m normally so surgically
attached to it.
Lough Derg’s Prior Father Owen McEneaney shook the hand
of every single pilgrim as they got on the boat and we made our way back to the
mainland singing Hail Glorious St Patrick.
Legend says that if you don’t look back over your
shoulder at the island you’ll never return.I had a half look over my shoulder.
Another legend says that if you visit Lough Derg three times you’re guaranteed
a place in heaven. I’m a third of the way there now, surely?
My only disappointment is that the gift shop didn’t stock
T-shirts stating #ididloughderg - I’d have bought one of them.
Will I go back? Bishop McKeown says God willing, he’ll be
taking members of the diocese again next year.
Ask me then.
To find out
more about Lough Derg ring 02868632391 or email info@loughderg.org
